No one’s dogs, India part eight:

June 1, 2006 at 04:58 | Posted in from within the "India"!? | 1 Comment

The last couple of days have been quite nice. Although my stomach virus has not subsided I continue to champion local eating efforts.

I have been frequenting a local vegetarian Japanese restaurant that serves tasty, authentic Japanese food. The atmosphere is great, as people lounge about long after they have finished eating. The restaurant–Lung Ta–has a sizeable library of books available for reading (although they are in Japanese). They also have Bancha–roasted green tea–which is a much welcomed addition to my day, it is difficult to find decent tea in India.

I went to another concert last night, but didn't really enjoy it. I was feeling quite antsy, and couldn't get comfortable, but I managed to sleep through a good deal of the concert–one of my favorite pastimes.

About the local dog packs:

Dogs are everywhere roaming about, eating things, pooping, and peeing. In keeping with the rest of India the dogs are a bit weary of people, as many people hit dogs. However, the dogs here in McLeod Ganj seem to be treated quite well in comparison. During the day they are out and about, but not too active. As soon as it gets dark out they start to go nuts; darkness coordinates with the withdrawal of the majority of human presence, as there are no street lights. So, once the people leave the dogs start being dogs: rummaging through trash or piles of discarded produce *interesting/disgusting side note: There are five or six produce vendors on the main street in town. They all sell the same stuff. At the end of the day they take the plastic crates that their produce is stored in, stack them up, put tarps over them, secure the tarps, and go home. Cows and dogs inevitably try to get into the crates with no success. The gross thing is that I saw one of the produce vendors using his produce-cutting knife to pick dirt out of his toenails.*, running a muck, and lots of barking. Bed time is always ushered by an unfaltering drone of distant barking. I can only imaginge the fun that the dogs have when the people are sleeping. I have spotted two boss dogs that seem to do whatever they want. One Golden retrieverish dog (they are all mutts of some degree) wandered into a concert and approached several people insisting on being scratched and petted, putting its paw out in a request for affection. Another dog, white with black and brown spots on the face and posterior, wandered into a restaurant and sat down at my feet insisting on being scratched. I scratched the dog and then it just sat quitely at my feet while Kimi, Chie and I ate dinner. At some point it was captivated by something, let out a loud bark, and ran out the door. It shortly returned and plopped right back down under our table. I have seen both of these dogs chase after cars, and motorcycles barking in a "Get the fuck out ma hood!" manner. No one feeds the dogs, or pays them much attention aside from the occasional "get lost" smack.

I still miss lettuce, and I also now miss beer, and wine. We really have it good in America. 

Not much is new. I leave tomorrow night on an overnight bus for Delhi, where I will spend one night in a hotel. After that I wake up on Sunday, try to get  a late checkout and leave my bags at the hotel, fart around for a few hours, take a taxi to the airport on Sunday night, and fly home at 2:15 A.M. on Monday.

Enjoy your day. 


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  1. smuggle a dog and take it to the dog bar i experienced in nyc.

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